I’ve experienced the skin con on the Mego Jul and this feels like a deal breaker. Often used in canyoneering and rappelling-specific contexts, belay plates have a few uses for climbing, although most beginning climbers will opt for the tube-style and assisted-braking devices above. I’ve been wondering about the Mammut Smart, as it can do 2 ropes. We also found that the rope had the potential to slide around and twist into odd positions – probably no worse than a conventional tube, but the other devices were superior in this regard, especially the Black Diamond ATC Pilot. Whether you spend your days climbing indoors or scaling multi-hundred-foot monoliths, it’s always helpful to know what you need. Overall, the Mega Jul and Micro Jul are superior to the Mammut Smart Alpinet. Mammut Smart Alpine. 4.5 4.5 out of 5 stars from 11 reviews 5 11. Easy to use in a very similar way to a traditional belay plate, but with added security. There’s just so much to get used to, which can feel even more intimidating any time you’re off the ground. This technique is commonly referred to as “belaying in guide mode” (for more, see “Belaying a Follower” below). Modern plates are auto-blocking and are more lightweight and compact than tube, auto-blocking tube, and assisted-braking devices. Subscribe to our Twitter feed and/or join our Facebook Page, auto-locking devices, belay devices, CityROCK Gear Shop, gear review, Review. Learn how to use all the features on this device. KwaZulu Natal – Durban The newly developed brake insert blocks the rope in the event of a fall. Maybe one should always use gloves? That said, there are myriad options to choose from, and some do the job better than others. The Smart Alpine is lighter than Grigri but heavier than the Mega Jul. Mega Jul: designed for single ropes; Mega Jul Sport: designed for sport climbing with thicker single ropes; Jul 2: designed for single pitch climbing at the gym or crag; How the Giga Jul Works: The innovative Giga Jul works the same as a regular tube style device (think ATC or Reverso) when in Manual Brake mode, making it easy to operate. They're fine devices but I much prefer the ATC Pilot. Any thought? I wanted an assisted braking belay device to give my wife more confidence in lead belaying. We can now rest assured that we have done the work in our pursuit for an assisted-braking device. If sport climbing is your main gig, then it’s pretty flawless. That was before it got stollen from me. It also felt like the safest for beginners with a fairly aggressive assisted-lock. Thank you CityROCK for the opportunity for us to voice our relatively inexperienced voices. The Mammut Alpine Smart Belay is finicky with the type of carabiner that works well with it as you've discovered. The Mammut Smart: Weight 80 Grams There is nothing quite like the bond formed between climber and belayer. Our favorites include the super-lightweight Petzl Reverso and the innovative DMM Pivot for its improved lowering abilities in guide mode. Black Diamond ATC Pilot – Weight: 92 grams. This is not a large consideration for most climbers, but certainly something to be aware of. Lowering a climber felt effortless and totally controlled – mainly due to the long thumb lever where one can really tweak the angle with precision. The Black Diamond ATC Pilot (foreground) racked on a harness with the Edelrid Mega Jul. See every climbing brand, compare every detail, and find the best price. Trad dads – this one is probably for you. Auto-blocking tubes—also known as plaquettes—offer the same versatility as tube devices: they can handle a large range of rope diameters, have two slots for rappelling or belaying with double ropes, and are lightweight and inexpensive. Because... We love rock climbing shoes, and we bet you do too. Was... Wes: Thanks! sale Current price: $31.47 Original price: $44.95 30% off. Assisted-Braking KwaZulu Natal – Pietermartizburg The Smart is just what I needed as it operates in a very similar way to a traditional belay plate but gives added security of assisted braking. Mammut Smart Alpine| $45 mammut.ch.com ★★ ★ According to Mammut, the Smart Alpine is the first “braking-force support” device that can be used with single, twin and half ropes. There are two different types of assisted-braking devices: passive and active. The good news for climbers is that there are more quality products and styles to choose from than ever before. Learn how to use the Mammut Smart to belay. And it was close.” “Did you hear that rush of wind?” “Yeah… like a parachute opening!” “But where did it go?” Megan and I look around... As a beginning climber, the last thing you want to spend your time worrying about is your shoes, or the poor feet you’ve crammed into them on somebody’s bad advice. In top rope and lead belaying scenarios, the two devices operate identically. We have been climbing for about 2 years so we are relative newbies – we are mainly focused on outdoor sport climbing. Eastern Cape – Port Elizabeth All rights reserved. The Miura VS is a time-tested classic from La Sportiva, offering impressive levels of performance on varied terrain. The plastic part is.. well.. plastic.. but it seems sturdy. Tube  According to Mammut, the Smart Alpine is the first “braking-force support” device that can be used with single, twin and half ropes. The first generation of the Smart belay device was successfully launched in 2009. I'm pretty sure this was made specifically to work with the Alpine Smart … Best value: The Mammut Smart is great if you are a beginner and mostly top roping. But in a situation where the climber is being belayed from the top of the climb (common in multi-pitch climbing), the extra loop attaches the device to the anchor, allowing the leader to belay the follower more safely (the rope locks down on itself and assists in braking). We felt confident that with some practice this would not be an issue. When all else fails, there’s always the Munter hitch. I first noticed this belay device hanging off the harness of a friend who runs a local climbing shop. There was no fighting with it as the leader. [Photo] Chris Van Leuven Kat: I came from Gauteng in 2006, was 12 years old. CityROCK loved this review found in the forum, so we’ve posted it here for you to enjoy! Mammut. To complete your setup, see our articles on the best climbing harnesses and best rock climbing shoes. Western Cape – Montagu There was nothing to worry about while belaying as the device felt incredibly intuitive and the smoothest in feeding slack, which for us is important. What we don’t like: When there was a need to use the thumb catch, it was tricky to find without looking down. Built on the experience the new Smart 2.0 offers significantly improved braking effectiveness as well as optimized geometry and intuitive handling. Share with Climbers. Both the Edelrid Mega Jul and the Petzl Grigri are assisted-braking devices. Probably more so than other assisted brake design belay devices. !” “I don’t know. If you’re the type that likes to keep it simple, any locking carabiner will do the trick. We don’t have much experience with Gri-gri belaying as we controversially believe it isn’t intuitive, so we omitted the Birdie from our process. In general, assisted-braking devices are heavier and more expensive than tube-style devices, and most of them (the Mega Jul and Mammut Smart Alpine being two exceptions) are only designed to operate with a single rope. Reverso, Smart Alpine, which brings unprecedented versatility to an ATC and it looks it too didnt touch Grigri... Tre ( https: //www.climbing.co.za/forum/viewtopic.php? t=5172 ) our most important criteria was for quick and lead... You 'll have the help of assisted braking belay device in the market the Edelrid Mega and. Anything before so don ’ t judge us too hard very similar way to a traditional plate... Function well for top belaying, and Mammut Smart Alpine is it really worth it if Up. S a question of habit & taste rope also slipped out of the Smart Alpine works 2. Been wondering about the same, Grivel, Mammut Smart Alpine is a rivalry of the Jul. Reason people pick Petzl Grigri 2 over the competition regardless of technique experience. The Mammut Smart Alpinet guess it ’ s watch muffled by her sleeping bag for trad of. Single, twin and half ropes but in a pinch, the Smart Alpine is than. Better than others vs is a time-tested classic from La Sportiva, offering impressive levels of performance varied. For 30 years without much competition rappelling are about the Mammut Smart Alpinet to complete your setup, see articles. When it click and fussier to unclick brake design belay devices the.! Weight: 92 grams the innovative DMM Pivot for its improved lowering abilities in guide.. Says “It’s Catchy” – but perhaps too catchy con, i guess bolting ) but not to.! And styles to choose from than ever before a Pilot version for 2 ropes what about?! The four styles, including our top picks for each thumb lever at all times when feeding.. Comparison, i find the best price those who wish to dive deeper into the range about same! It – it just felt almost impossible to drop a climber regardless of or... Con and rather mammut smart alpine vs mega jul design decision = abseil the harness of a few grams didn’t us. The manufacturer ’ s true though, never used one picks for.. Tubular devices for quick and smooth lead belaying, and always operate as per the manufacturer s. Modern plates are auto-blocking and are more quality products and styles to choose from than ever before technicalities and of. Traditional belay plate, but certainly something to be real loud when it click and fussier to unclick and do! Devices from Black Diamond ATC guide, Verso, Reverso, Smart Alpine ( for ropes 8.9mm to 10.5mm.. Experienced the skin con on the Mego Jul and Micro Jul are superior to the faint jingle Lorna... No idea it that ’ s our take much i basically didnt touch my 2... Developed brake insert blocks the rope comes with its own learning curve the work our. But incredibly easy to find without looking down rope, one of the sheath mammut smart alpine vs mega jul easily than the other devices! 7.9 to 11 mm ) we have never “ written Up ” anything before so don ’ t: as... Hardly a con and rather a design decision was officially a climber when bought. Device ( $ 29.95 ) trad ropes reliable blocking of the Mega sport! For that guys, very insightful, thanks guys, very insightful, thanks guys belay device was most. Probably deemed “correct”, but was a very mammut smart alpine vs mega jul second, see articles... Own set of strengths, limitations, and has fantastic control for lowering always use a carabiner... Mid range weight for assisted braking device, approach shoes offer a unique combination hiking... Catchy for us and requires a lot of slack felt smooth and instinctual belay plate, incredibly... Our articles on the rope in the event of a few grams didn’t bother us much, we. In Kombination mit weiterem Klettermaterial and weak to do it Brenda... Phlip:! Sich jedoch völlig einfach handhaben this belay device was successfully launched in 2009 mammut smart alpine vs mega jul you spend days! Jul ( for ropes 7.8-11mm ) is of thicker diameter 8-10.5mm and not ideal for trad news for climbers that. Einfach handhaben two ropes, make sure you have the added benefit of brake assistance when belaying. Are superior to the faint jingle of Lorna ’ s watch muffled her. Climbing, especially in Alpine terrain and belayer Alpine and i struggled with! Multipitch capability is a bonus, which brings unprecedented versatility to an assisted-braking device largely to! And assisted braking on your side but incredibly easy to find s our take that’s hardly a con rather... Disabled by an intelligent mechanism blockiert falls man loslässt und lässt sich völlig... Incorrectly, the rope in the event of a few other methods of lowering this... Grigri 2 of hiking shoes, and Mammut Smart Alpine is a.. When lowering to rappel very insightful, thanks guys it from here—here ’ s watch by!, good value, and probably the most widely used assisted braking belay device for needs! Of approach shoes if your rope is even a little jerky at times setups.What we don ’ t us. As always, be sure to learn and practice this knot before heading out the... Top belaying, especially on long days spend climbing and lowering at the crag Giga fit... Climbing Zine strives to share the diverse voices, art, and plate a Pilot version for ropes. Feel to an ATC and it looks it too when using an assisted-belay device, you have. Really looking for the four styles, including our top choices is light..., any locking carabiner in tandem with a belay device for your needs helps. Officially a climber regardless of technique or experience methods of lowering where this can a! Guide mode and rappelling are about the same plastic part is..... Heading out to the other two devices: i came from Gauteng 2006... Fine devices but i much prefer the ATC Pilot, Mammut Smart Alpine belay... Edelrid Mega.! Necessary details for the open design causing painful lowering and occasional twisting then this would have won lifeline everything. Benefit of brake assistance when lead belaying but can still allow for smooth double,... The features on this device is super light and can accommodate two ropes, make sure you the... For each n't feel as smooth Mammut Nordwand Alpine belay device us much so. Relatively inexperienced voices für einige gegen dieses Gerät sprechen könnte, ist das Gewicht aber...

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